African Nova Scotia Food Culture

Canadian Preservation of African Culinary Heritage

Africans in Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia means “New Scotland,” and it is known as an area where many Europeans settled. Because of this, some people think it is primarily white. However, this view overlooks the critical history of African communities in Nova Scotia. These communities have made significant contributions and have had a lasting influence in the province.

The flavors of African Nova Scotian cuisine trace back to the 18th-century journeys of Black Loyalists and Jamaican Maroons. These groups carried their African and Caribbean culinary traditions, blending bold spices, smoked techniques, and earthy ingredients to create delicious historical dishes for the community. Their influence is a vital seasoning in Nova Scotia’s rich food history, shaping a legacy that still simmers in Nova Scotian kitchens today.

The Black community in Nova Scotia, especially in Preston (a portion of old Africville), has a history that connects to people from Africa and the colonial past, including the impact of French and British slavery. New Africa was one of several places where Black Canadians lived.

The area now called New Africa was first known as “Africville.” Still, the people who lived there later chose to change its name to “New Africa.” in the 1960s, the Halifax city government forcibly relocated the residents of Africville/New Africa as part of a larger urban renewal project. The community was demolished, and its residents were relocated to public housing.

In 2010, the government of Nova Scotia said sorry for the destruction of Africville. Today, the name Preston represents a larger community. However, the history of Africville remains a vital part of the area’s story.

How Africans Arrived in Nova Scotia

Settlers in Nova Scotia, especially in the 17th and early 18th centuries, owned enslaved Africans. Some African slaves were brought to work on farms, in homes, or on ships. After the British expelled the Acadians in 1755, the region was repopulated with a mix of British settlers, Loyalists, and enslaved Africans. 

After the American Revolution (1775–1783), the British offered freedom to enslaved people who had supported their cause by fighting for the British. Many African slaves, along with Maroons, fled the U.S. and were relocated to Nova Scotia as part of the British government’s promise. In 1796, a group of Jamaican Maroons was sent to Nova Scotia, where they were settled in a community near Birchtown, near Shelburne.

This led to the arrival of thousands of Black Loyalists in the province after the war. They brought with them unique culinary traditions, including the use of tropical spices and jerk seasoning. By the late 18th century, it became clear that the Maroons could not remain in Nova Scotia due to the harsh conditions and growing tensions. 

The British government began negotiations with the Company of Sierra Leone, established as a colony for freed slaves in West Africa. The Maroons who accepted this offer were part of a larger group of African Nova Scotians who moved to Sierra Leone in the early 19th century. 

African Nova Scotian Cuisine

Colonial systems often sought to suppress African foodways, labeling them as inferior or uncivilized. African Nova Scotian cuisine in Canadian kitchens defies these colonial narratives, asserting the value and richness of African culinary traditions.

African Nova Scotian cuisine blends ingredients from Black Loyalists, Jamaican Maroons, and Black Refugees in the region, blending them with African and Caribbean cooking traditions.

Potatoes, bacon, salt cod and pork, haddock, and root vegetables reflect Nova Scotia’s fishing and agricultural resources. Okra, black-eyed peas, and spicy seasoning reflect African culinary traditions brought by early settlers. The Jamaican Maroons introduced tropical spices, jerk seasoning, and curries.

The cooking traditions Black Loyalists, Jamaican Maroons, and Black Refugees brought to Nova Scotia changed over time. These communities learned to use local ingredients and adjusted their recipes to fit the climate of Nova Scotia.

The Lobster Stew recipe combines local seafood traditions with bright African spices and creamy coconut milk. This dish lets you enjoy many different flavors and gives you the option to use your favorite seafood. You can choose sweet shrimp, soft crab, or filling fish, making this stew a chance for you to get creative in the kitchen and create your own African Nova Scotian cuisine.

African Nova Scotia Lobster Stew

Ingredients

1 cooked lobster about 1.5 pounds
2 tablespoons palm oil (or any cooking oil you have)
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon grated ginger (or 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger)
1 can (14 oz) diced tomatoes
1 can (14 oz) coconut milk
1 cup vegetable or chicken broth (or water)
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon savory
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1 cup frozen mixed vegetables or diced sweet potatoes
Salt and black pepper, to taste

Directions

Prepare the lobster, remove the meat from the claws and tail. Chop it into bite-sized pieces and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the chopped onion, garlic, and ginger. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and fragrant.

Stir in the paprika, savory, and cumin. Cook for 1 minute to release the flavors.

Add the canned tomatoes (with their juice), coconut milk, and broth. Stir well. Add the frozen vegetables or sweet potatoes. Bring the stew to a simmer and cook for 15–20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.

Gently stir in the lobster meat and cook for another 5 minutes to heat it through. Taste the stew and add salt and pepper as needed.

Ladle the stew into bowls and sprinkle with parsley or cilantro if you like. Serve with bread or rice.

Okra and Salt Fish Stew is another dish influenced by African traditions and adapted to the Nova Scotian diet.

Okra and Salt Fish Stew

Ingredients
1 pound salt cod (desalted)
1 pound okra, sliced
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bell pepper, chopped
1 large ripe tomato, chopped
1 scotch bonnet pepper
1 teaspoon savory

1 cup water

Directions
Soak the salt cod in cold water for several hours, changing the water frequently to remove excess salt.

Bring a pot of water to a simmer and cook the salt fish until tender. Flake the fish.

In a pot, sauté the onion, garlic, bell pepper, and scotch bonnet pepper until softened.

Add the okra, savory, and water to the pot. Simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until the okra is tender.

Add the flaked salt fish to the pot and simmer for a few more minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot with rice, bread, or dumplings.

Desalting the salt cod is crucial. If you don’t soak it long enough, the dish will be overly salty. Adjust the amount of scotch bonnet pepper to your desired level of heat. The okra will naturally thicken the stew as it cooks. If you prefer a thinner stew, add a little more water.

Today, African Nova Scotian cuisine is alive and well. Chefs, historians, and community members are working to document and celebrate these culinary traditions. Events like the Halifax Black Food Market and Black Cultural Centre for Nova Scotia programs promote the cuisine as an essential part of Canadian food heritage.

Africville Harbour Stew

Yields: 6 servings

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 1 hour 30 minutes

Ingredients

2 tablespoons bacon fat 

1 pound bacon, diced 

1 large onion, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

2 celery stalks, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried thyme 

1/2  teaspoon summer savory

1 pound smoked sausage 

1 pound potatoes, peeled and cubed 

1 pound cabbage, chopped 

4 cups chicken or vegetable broth 

1 cup fish stock 

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the bacon fat over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until browned and crispy, rendering the fat. Remove the cooked bacon and set aside, leaving the rendered fat in the pot. Add the onion, carrots, and celery to the pot and cook until softened about 5-7 minutes. 

Add the garlic, thyme, and summer savory and cook for another minute until fragrant. Add the smoked sausage and cook for a few minutes until lightly browned. Add the potatoes, cabbage, broth, and fish stock to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 1 hour or until the potatoes are tender. Return the cooked salt pork/bacon to the pot. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot in bowls. 

Did you know? The Cunard Line began in 1840 and was an important part of Britain’s shipping industry. It mainly offered passenger and cargo services across the Atlantic Ocean, connecting Britain with Canada and the United States. During Britain’s time as a colonial power, Cunard also helped transport colonial officials, soldiers, food, and other goods. For Canadian officials and workers traveling to African colonies, Cunard ships were likely a common choice for crossing the Atlantic to Britain before continuing their journey to Africa.

Key Differences: Black Communities in Nova Scotia

Group	Time Period	Background
Black Loyalists	1783-1785	Enslaved people who fought for the British
Jamaican Maroons	1796	Descendants of escaped enslaved people in Jamaica
Black Refugees	1813-1815	Enslaved people who escaped during the War of 1812
African Nova Scotians	Ongoing	Descendants of various Black groups in Nova Scotia